Simple Clear over French Tip Application

This video cover acrylic application over a french white tip, and explains the difference between using white acrylic powder and white tips

This nail has already been tipped and prepped. So we're ready to apply our acrylic onto this one. We're still going to use two different coloured powders. If you just applied pink powder on to this nail the white tip would lose it's crispness, so you're going to apply clear onto the white tip and then pink on to the rest of the nail, and we're still going to divide it in to three zones. Picking up a medium sized bead of clear, placing it on to the white tip. Make sure you take the liquid out of your brush. Using the point of your brush to press it to one side and then the point of your brush to press it to the other. Then the belly of your brush to bring it towards you - don't worry if you get any excess on the end because that can be filed off. The next bead were going to use is pink, place it on and wipe your brush - point of the brush to one side and point of the brush to the other and pull forward.

Don't worry if a little bit of that pink comes into your clear area once you've filed, it will come off. For your final bead you need to tilt your client's nail down slightly so the acrylic doesn't run back into the cuticle, using the point of the brush to move it and pull it forward. Now we're going to wait about sixty seconds now for this nail to start setting and then were going to put our pinching tool on. Your time will depend on the room that you're in, this room is quite warm so we've only got about sixty seconds to play with it. If you're in a colder room then you will have a lot longer time, so if you're in a competition area for example, you're in such a big area its very cold, you've got a lot longer to pinch. In salon where it's a little bit warmer you've got less time to pinch. So this nail should be ready for pinching now, if you're not sure just use your fingers and press on to your nail to see if its ready. If it's still a bit sticky then wait a little bit longer.

That nail feels ready to me so we're going to place the pinching tool on. Now depending on how much you want this nail to be pinched will depend on where on the nail you use the tool. If you're only wanting it slightly pinched because its just a salon nail then there is perfectly fine. If you're wanting it to be really pinched then you're going to push it further up the pinching tool, that will give a lot tighter pinch. This is a salon nail so were going to bring it back down to there. You need to leave that pinching tool on for a couple of minutes so it's highly advisable that you buy a few pinching tools so you can keep one on and go on to the next nail, put another one on and go onto the next nail. So that pinching tool is staying on there for quite a while. The acrylic takes a whole eight hours to fully set but that first few minutes is your most important time. If you take the pinching tool off too early that nail will bounce back and you'll not have that lovely C curve that you're after.

There are reasons why we use pinching tools and how we can use them safely without causing any damage to the natural nail. If you leave it to late to pinch, and your place your pinching tool on you can cause quite a bit of damage by lifting that nail plate up off the nail so make sure you do it early enough. If it smudges your acrylic slightly it doesn't matter. I'd rather it smudge your acrylic slightly than leave it to late. The second reason we pinch is so as that acrylic is starting to set we're pushing it on to the side walls of the client's natural nail, that way you are going to get a lot less lifting in that area. And the third reason we pinch is because it actually looks like that nail fits there. A lot of extensions tend to look very false, when we're pinching the nail and it comes out from the nail plate exactly where the natural nail would, it looks like it actually should be there. Once that nail is ready you can take that pinching tool off. So it's been on there for a good few minutes, you'll have a much nicer C curve and your side wall will be nice and straight which will help you when you come to your filing.