How To Create A Competition Nail
This video shows in detail how to create a nail design for a professional competition.
Hi, I'm kirsty meakin from naio nails, on this video I'm going to show you how to do a competition pink and white, so we're going to go through the structure and everything like that, we're going to use liquid and powder, which is acrylic and we're going to show you all about a competition pink and white nail. So we're going to do a competition style nail, first of all is I want to talk to you about the nail bed, we have prepped this already, if you want to see the video for that you can look in the descriptions and you will find a link there. I just want to explain what you need for a competition nail, so I have got a little measuring tape here. You can use a ruler, I don't mind what you use as long as we can get some length, here you can see the length, so if you can see that, we have got a length of 19mm, which is amazing, that's what you want, a nice natural c-curve to the nail, no damage to the skin, no damage to the nail, no damage to the hyponychium, a nice natural smile line here, a nice visible lunar at the bottom there. So we have prepped this nail, like I said. What we're going to do now is fit a sculpting form, now it needs to be fitted in a certain way. We're not doing a salon nail, we are doing a competition style pink and white nail. You're still going to take the tab from the center of your form and double the thickness up and we're going to contour the curve through the whole length of this form. Now what we do is we have to check, that the smile line from this form matches the smile line of Adele's finger, which it doesn't. So, we're going to make it match, so if you look at this you can see from this line here and this line here, that matches where her natural nail fold is here. So we're going to trim this section here, and we're going to check, this is so important, this needs to match perfect, just like that. Ok, so you can see that matches perfectly now. When we put this on now, we're going to do a square nail, that needs to have a really deep c-curve, to create this deep c-curve what you need to do is open the back of the form out which will lift the form up. So what you need to see from the side view is this form kicking up slightly. Now let me explain, the longest point of the nail that you are creating, needs to be in line with the highest point of the natural nail, which is here. So I'm just going to close the form in the middle, just ever so slightly. I'm going to
check that we are still straight and now I can close the tabs underneath. Check again
that you're still straight, you have not disturbed it, everything fits nice, and then you can
come to the end and just give that a tiny close. So if you look at the back here, how
open this is, it's nearly as wide as the actual nail. A good guide to use is to open the tab
at least half the width of the nail. So if you look at the side view of this nail you can see that the highest point is in line with the longest point of the nail we're going to create and the nail's going to run very long. So what I'm first of all I'm going to do a moon, right at the back. Now you can do this before or after you fit your form, and I'm going to use the high speed liquid because I want it to set up quite quickly. The powder that we're going to use for the moon is soft pastel pink which looks quite white against the skin, but we need it to be soft, we don't want it to be bright white, that's not what we're looking for at the back. So you're going to get a small bead and you're going to blot it out, straight on to the moon area, going as close as you can to the cuticle, without flooding it. Just going to tweak a moon shape. Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to extend the nail bed. Before I do that though I'm going to put a little bit of clear, just so I have a nice surface to work on, I'm putting a thin layer of clear on this contact area where the stress area would be. Only thinly. This will just reinforce the pinch and give a nice smooth surface to apply the nail bed extension on to. Make sure you've got no thickness, we don't want a lumpy bumpy nail, nice and smooth. When you put your natural beige cover on, all your white on and you've got lumps and bumps you're going to interfere with what you're putting on top. So this foundation level here is really important. So now we're going to use the natural beige and we're going to use the max adhesion. So we're going to extend this nail out, this nail bed and feather it back, we're going to extend it to around here, just slightly above that number 1 on there. You don't need a massive bead, we do need to bleed that bead out. Pop it directly where you want it, sweep it back, and again. Now you're going to make sure this smile line is crisp, you're going to break down this nail and work on it in different stages, different sections. All I am doing now is blending this up a little bit. And now we're going to use blush pink which is a transparent pink, you can work straight up to that moon, blend straight down, now this is where you will lay in the structure for visible apex which will be in the back third of the nail. Which is why I have just put that bead there. Now I know that we have got that there. Ok. Now we're going to let that dry a little bit. So I'm just going to test pinch that, brill, we're good to go. So I just test it by popping it on slightly and just checking that there wasn't any indentations. So let the pinching tool do its thing, just going to slide it up a little bit more so it's a little bit tighter. So because we put
the clear here that is going to give us room to actually file this. It's going to help it not come off the nail form. If we hadn't put this clear underneath and we started to file this nail now it would come off the nail form. Then you would have to re fit another nail form exactly where it is, perfect, perfect fit, which is very difficult to do, especially when you're under pressure in a competition. So what we're going to do now we're looking at the nail, addressing where we need to file, you're going to do it nice and slow, don't rush it, you want a nice curve, you don't want it to be too pointy, even though I quite like that whole quite chevron, deep smile line, in competitions it's not always what the judges are looking for, they do want a nice continued curve, just going to dust that off. So once you're happy with that, you're then going to move on to your white. So we're using pure white, press all the bubbles out of that brush, we don't want any bubbles in this product at all, wipe the back and press one, two, three. Just going to let that polymerise a little bit, see how it's going a little bit smoother? Pop that on. Then we're going to work this up to one side, and then straight up to the other side, keeping the smile as neat as you can, using the belly of the brush. Nice straight sides. Now I have got that laid down I am going to get a tiny bead, bleed it out, right up into these corners. You don't want any gaps, you want a nice, neat, crisp wing to that smile line. So we're going to get another bead, slightly smaller than before and we're going to bleed it out, let it polymerise a little bit, slightly thicken this free edge up, because it is so long, you may have to do it in a couple of beads, we want it really pigmented and we don't want to press bubbles into this either. Now what we're going to do, tiny bit of clear, doesn't need to be a dry bead, it can be a medium wet bead and we're literally just dragging it over, just so we get a nice smooth finish. Check your curves, make sure you have got your apex in the back third, and then everything is going to run straight out from there. Now we just need to let this set a little bit.
And then what we're going to do is we're going to use a pinching dowel and what i have done onto the ends of these pinching dowels is I have put on some of the paper from the file. So I have basically ripped it off, so I have just gone from this end here, that was on there once upon a time, peeled that off, cut it up. And I'll show you how to do one now. While that sets up a little bit, so you're going to use this one, and what you need to do, I'm just going to cut it slightly straighter, it doesn't need to be perfectly straight, and you're going to wrap it round, guesstimate where it's going to finish, just snip that and you can cut it. Wrap it round again just to double check and then we're going to put a little bit of nail glue on the end of this pinching dowel and I'm going to wrap it round, watch your fingers, you don't want to get stuck to it. Use a pair of tweezers, that will help it adhere. So we're going to go back to the nail now, now we can give this a bit of a pinch, so we're going to go on with the pinching tool. Pinch it a little bit, But we're actually at the point where we can take this off and pinch it with it off, and that's what you want to do. So if we look at the curve under here now, we're going to match this curve and make it even more tubular. So with the other end, not the end that you put the paper on but the other end, pop that underneath, wrap it round, because you've still got a little bit of play, still a little bit of movement with this product, it's not completely set yet, so you can pinch it around the dowel. What you need to do is watch the hyponychium underneath the nail. When you pop that down, make sure you're not pushing back with the dowel. Just wrap it round, the heat from your fingers will help set the product up also, check your curves, nice and tubular. Just going to pop this back on, you can put your pinching dowel underneath like this and then put your pinching tool on. It's a little bit fiddly but you can do it. Or you can go from underneath, however you want to do it and you can leave that there, it's just a good little clamp to clamp in that curve, make sure it's perfect before you leave it, don't just think, oh that will do and go on to the next finger, check that it's creating what you want it to create. Lets have a look at this now. Ok, we want this to be completely dry before we file it. Now we have pretty much done like a one to one ratio, different competitions have different rules, so we measure from here to here, we've got a 23mm nail bed extension, on the side we've got 29, nearly 30mm and here we've got 11mm. We're going to file this now, same routine, side walls, nice and straight, both sides, do not anchor the file up, keep it nice and flat so it is perfectly in line, so don't anchor it up like this because you will eat into this part of the smile line, keep it nice and flat. So run it perfectly flat. Cuticle
area, nice and soft, softly does it because you do not want to obliterate that moon. You
can soften it, it doesn't matter if it's soft as long as it's there and you don't totally file it away, try not to get carried away with making it so flush that you have no moon left, so make sure when that file is on there you're really angling the file in. So you're just skipping across that section right at the cuticle area, and when you come round don't get too file happy on the corners of your smile line. I'm just whipping across the top of that moon, I'm just going to straighten up that free edge for a second, I will come back to that at some point. Now we're going to do the entire length of this nail, by doing this, and I'm rotating the finger as I do it, I'm still keeping an eye on this. Every time that file moves I'm watching how much it's removing and how much it's refining that surface. This needs to be as thin as a business card, just going to dust a little bit, just so I can see exactly what I'm working with here. File that end down a little bit. And sometimes you can't see it but you can feel it, so you're going to rub your thumb up and down and you'll feel any imperfections that it, are there and then you can use your file to address that, so just dust over. We're going to buff that cuticle area first, just want to make sure that's bob on. Just dust that again, so you can see you've got your moon here, the highest point of your smile lines are equal, so if you drew a line straight across you would get a perfect line, can see with this dowel a little bit better. So you can see it matches from side to side, a deep smile line, but from the side view you can see it has a nice curve, it's not too pointy. And then if we look at this side view of the nail you can see the apex sneaking up straight out of the cuticle in the back third of the nail, nice high point, from that high point we're going straight out, see? With the c-curve, you've got a great bit whopping c-curve there. And what we're going to do is make that even thinner at the end, so with those tools that we played with earlier, so you can see that fits, support the nail and run it underneath, watch what you're doing all the time, you don't want to break it, you're supporting this, it's going to give it a nice curve and it's also going to thin out that edge, you can do it slowly if you want, I like to give
it a quick, fast motion, and slightly slow it down. Make sure you've not disturbed the
shape, so before we top coat it we're going to wipe over with acetone. This is a good
little trick, this dissolves the top layer and makes it even smoother, which is great if you're going to buff it to a high shine,make sure there's no debris anywhere, then we're going to top coat this with the mega gloss sealer gel. Bouncing as close as I can to the cuticle without touching it, and coming through the entire length, you want to put it on as thin as you can because you don't want to bulk out the nail but you want to put it on thick enough so you get a nice, a real nice shine. Don't cap the edge because you will only bulk it out, let that self level a little bit. And then we can go into the lamp, put that in for two minutes. So that's dry, got a nice high shine on that now, I'm just going to pop a little bit the passion fruit cuticle oil, pop that on just round this cuticle area, replenish that skin. So you can see, have a look at that structure again, and you can see this c-curve here, this is equal, equal, nice deep smile, you don't want to see a straight line from your side view, you don't want to see a complete straight line, so you can see how that curves, some people chevron it that much that all you can see from the side view is a straight line, you want to be able to see this curve here. So you want it to come nice and steep and then curve. Apex, back third, straight out, nice and straight, everything is nice and straight, you've got a really good c-curve there as well so it's nice and pinched. So you've got a really big c-curve 50%, if we had another one underneath you would have a full circle, nice and deep.