Beginners Guide to Acrylic Nails. Tutorial Videos by Naio Nails
Hi, my name's Gemma Lambert, I'm twelve times UK nail champion, international competition technician of the year 2009 and an international nail judge, I'm here today to show you how to do a basic pink and white tip and overlay with acrylic. We've started by getting the client to wash her hands. We're going to start by using out metal tool to push back the clients cuticle. Not too firm! You don't want to hurt the client. any excess cuticle, can be removed using the other end of your cuticle pusher, to scrape it away. you do need to scrape this away, if you don't scrape it away, then the nail will lift straight away.
It's not designed to stick to skin. The next step we are going to do is we are going to file the clients natural nail plate. With a 180 grit nail file very gently, just letting the file do the work. Not applying too much pressure concentrating on the side walls and cuticle area. making sure that there's no shine left on the nail plate. the next step to do is to shape the client's free edge. Again nice and gentle. We now need to remove that dust from the nail so that it doesn't get trapped under our extension today were going to be using well-less tips which means that you don't have to blend, which saves you a good half an hour
on your treatment time. When sizing a tip up, don't just press the tip down to check that it fits. Because it may not fit from sidewall to sidewall. I'll just show you a smaller tip
to give you and idea of a tip that wouldn't fit. So if we press that down that does look like it fits. But if we press it from sidewall to sidewall, we can see that it doesn't fit. This one from from sidewall to sidewall, fits the nail because we are not going to be blending this tip you do need to place the tip on the nail where you want the smile line to be. The tip doesn't go down here or the white would end up down there! The tip needs to be right on the end. Your tip is only there as a base for your acrylic, it's not there as strength. I'm going to apply a small amount of brush on resin and press it out to the wings of the tip come down at a 45 deg. angle, until you see the resin hit the nail. Then press the tip down. Don't worry about the wings of the tip right now. All you're concentrating on is the centre piece of the nail once that centre piece is stuck, then you can use your fingers or nails to press those wings in. Check to see if you have any air-pockets. If you do you could always apply just a little bit more resin. We're going to cut this nail now remembering always that the blade is towards you and not towards the client, so that you don't cut her finger. Get the client to lift her hand up, so you can get the tip cutter underneath. You will have already discussed in the consultation of what length at client wants, again with the well-less tips there is no need to do any filing on them now. We can go straight on to applying the acrylic. Also another thing to remember is that if you are going to do gel instead of acrylic you would need to take the shine off this tip, but today we're doing to do acrylic. We're going to start by dehydrating the nail. The reason we dehydrate nails before we put acrylic on top of them, is that nails are alkaline based
and acrylic is acidic based we need to change the pH balance of the nail to match the acrylic. Apply it to the natural nail only, there is no need to apply it to the plastic tip. When the product goes on, it starts of wet, and then it dehydrates the nail so you will see it dry. We're gonna be using an acrylic liquid that has already got a primer in it. If you're using an acrylic liquid that hasn't got a primer in it you will now need to apply a primer as well but we don't need to. We're going to be using Mega White, Clear and Blush Pink, the reason we use clear as well as pink is so that we don't get any shadowing on the smile line. When your picking your monomer up put your brush all the way in, draw back once.
Then in to your powder… one, two, three. That way you know you'll have a perfect
consistency bead. It's not going to be so dry that you'll see the powder and it's not going to be so wet that it's dripping off the brush. When using white powder, just blot the liquid
off the back of the bead with the back brush, to make sure that white stays nice and bright. Place the bead on, wait for it to settle a little bit, don't go straight in to it. Keeping your brush at a nice flat angle, you're going to press in to the bead and push it up to follow the smile line. Then over to the other side, push up to follow the smile line. You're then going to use the flat of your brush to pull all of that bead down, and make sure it covers the entire tip. And wipe your brush. You're going to use the belly of your brush which is this centre part of the brush, to pad down and make sure the whole product is nice and even. If you need to wipe round your smile line, do it in a nice sweeping motion, don't prod at it. The next bead were going to use is clear, place the bead just past your smile line and again let it settle, wipe your brush, using the tip of your brush this time, pad that bead out to each side and then pull back over the white. Nice light brush strokes. The next bead were going to use is the blush pink, and tilt the clients finger slightly down so that when you apply this pink it's not going to flood back towards the cuticle. Again using the tip of your brush, pad it to either side then pull over the clear. Give your brush a good rinse in the acrylic liquid before you put it away. The next bit that were going to do, is we are going to pinch this nail at the minute, it's quite a flat nail and it doesn't match the size of the finger. Pinching makes the nail look a lot more slender and gives it a deeper c-curve, which also makes it a lot stronger. Wait for your acrylic to be slightly set before you do this, or you'll press in to your acrylic. This will alter with the temperature of your room if you're in a warm room you'll need to pinch a lot earlier than if you were in a cold room. Keep checking your nail keep checking to see if it's heated up and the acrylic is setting, then it's time to pinch. Okay, so were ready for pinching now, place the tool on the nail, make sure that it's nice and central and let go, the tool will do it's work, you can leave that tool on there, and go on to the next nail. We're then going to go on to filing the nail,
starting with the free edge. You can be a little bit more vigorous with this than you did when you filed the natural nail. On to the sidewalls, making sure the nail comes out nice and parallel and doesn't fan out. Next we're going to file on top of the nail. We're gonna start with the white area, then with the clear then the pink so that you've divided your nail up into three zones. Keep the file moving don't stay in one place, because the friction from the file could build up and give the client a burning sensation. If you keep moving they won't get that! Now moving on to the clear section and down on to the cuticle area where the pink is. Be careful when filing round this area, as you can cause damage to the natural nail if you file too hard. When you think you've finish filing check the nail from all angles to see if it is thin enough and if the arch is in the correct place. The arch of the nail should be at it's highest point at the centre of the nail, that is the stress point. Make sure you've got no frills underneath the nail. We then need to dust the nail to make sure that we don't get any dust trapped in our gel top coat. The next stage is gel top coat. The reason we gel top coat an acrylic nail, is to give it water durability. We're going paint this on just like you would a polish, making sure you don't touch any skin or cuticle. I'm just popping the client under the lamp now for two minutes, for the gel top coat to cure. The last thing we're going to do is apply a small amount of cuticle oil around the cuticle and massage it in. And that's your acrylic nail done!